Each new Phoebe Philo launch confirms to us her great ability-something increasingly rare when we think of other brands-to be able to express desirability while remaining true to an imagery that over time has become recognizable at first glance. The British designer, known for having been able to introduce an innovative feminine aesthetic in her creative direction days at Celine, shows us that you don’t necessarily need a runway show in the official international fashion calendars to be talked about, especially in this historical period. It is enough to have a winning idea, an aesthetic coherence that can be convincing and that can seduce customers through garments that express quality, luxury, innovation and durability, which can therefore be worthwhile investments, beyond seasonality and trends. Phoebe does not copy, at most it allows itself to be copied. We have seen this in all of her recent collections: those structured outerwear, that tactile and primal need that is embodied in quality leathers and softly architectural shapes, those total looks that can be functional for a wardrobe that is as everyday as it is intended for more important occasions, are all dictates that she primarily pioneered, and her eponymous brand is an exquisite representation of this.
It is no coincidence that every drop of the brand is eagerly awaited and welcomed. And the latest one, officially launched yesterday on the official website and communicated through social media, is no exception either, imprinting an imagery that is yes constant in its intentionality, but never boring. True flagship of this collection, the footwear: sensual in their minimalism, they express comfort and yet they are feminine, lethal in their gait. And what better combination for the contemporary woman than to be able to feel seductively powerful without forcing herself into an uncomfortable life of deprivation? Philo’s woman is a woman who knows what she wants, which is to feel confident in her skin, adequate to any role or situation, ready to live her life without forcing herself into crippling diktats. And then, again, the poetics of the outerwear, understood as a statement garment, as a distinctive element that, in its silent majesty, remains central and does not need too much else to get noticed. Even in this essentiality, Philo is a winner, because it reminds us how sometimes it is enough to focus on a single garment to make a difference, without too many frills. These are leather bomber jackets with prominent, geometric necklines, trenchcoats that are classic but enriched with funnel necks, jackets that mark the waist with powerful grace, emphasizing the feminine silhouette even in the linearity of a rigorous but rapturous tailoring. We find robe coats in textured fur, bomber jackets in technical fabric that bring elegance to the ordinary of everyday life; and then cut-out, cut-out designs that we find in leather jackets that reveal the arms and become a structured hybrid of cape and biker jacket.
In accessories, the designer’s creativity adds that taste for the ephemeral that is nevertheless never too much: brooches with maxi ruffles to be worn over coats or T-shirts, or silver necklaces with minimal chains that fit into a broader but still timeless landscape of wearability. We do not know if one day the designer will choose to take the catwalk leap and present her collections in fashion week, but for now we can confidently say that there is no need.
[đź“·Instagram:phoebephilo]
