The second collection designed by Miguel Castro Freitas for Mugler, the Fall Winter 2026 show recently held in Paris brings several of the fashion house’s historical codes to the runway, reinterpreted in a contemporary key. Important 80s-inspired shoulders return, often squared or deliberately emphasized with disproportionate points, contrasted with accentuated waists, elements that are part of Mugler’s historical DNA.
However, these structured silhouettes meet a surprisingly vibrant color palette compared to Mugler’s imagery of recent years, connoted by monochrome, predominantly dark. Indeed, the color palette ranges from purple to cyclamen to lime green, with touches of orange and teal emerging alongside tight black leather outfits. Purple and eggplant are the real stars of the collection, declined in stoles, suits and structured jackets.
As seen in other runway shows this season, maxi furs and glitter are back, elements that seem to form a real thread running through the 2026-27 woman who emerged from this month’s runways. The references of this Mugler woman are multiple, as are the silhouettes. In several looks, the emphasis is on the waist, while in the more wintry proposals, with furs and heavy jackets, the shapes become more enveloping, hugging the body in a softer way.
The woman who emerges from this collection appears strong and determined with some camp flare, such as micro hats and hairstyles, reminiscent of provocative and somewhat cartoony figures, a clear legacy of Thierry. However, she seems to lack that quid capable of making her instantly recognizable as a Mugler woman. In a panorama in which the aesthetic signature and the sense of belonging to a maison are fundamental, this collection stands as a formal experiment that has not yet reached definite completion.
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