For its Cruise 2027 held last night, Louis Vuitton chose the historic home of the Frick Collection, transforming one of the last Gilded Age mansions overlooking Central Park into the stage for a collection that puts fashion, art and urban memory in dialogue. In the halls of the New York museum, Nicolas Ghesquière builds a fashion show with a strongly eclectic attitude, where sporty references and experimental silhouettes coexist.
On the runway, which was “inaugurated” by the new promise of Italian cinema Giulia Maenza, androgynous figures parade, immersed in layered styling that alternates exaggerated volumes and drier lines. Colors are bright, from pink to blue to bright yellow, and help emphasize constructions and overlays, reinforcing the visual impact of the collection. The contrast between top and bottom constantly returns: tight-fitting cropped pants are paired with cropped, voluminous tops, while structured vests and micro tops are paired with loose miniskirts or leather and denim pants.
The general tone is definitely leaning toward casual: leather, denim, transparencies and technical fabrics are the protagonists, worked through material games that alternate utility jackets, leather vests, technical outerwear and inserts with a futuristic flavor. Accessories also follow this direction: low, two-tone and lace-up shoes recall the sporty world, while unisex caps in neutral tones emerge as one of the most recognizable elements of the collection.
There is also no shortage of direct homage to New York City, the show’s host city. Graphic patterns reminiscent of Keith Haring’s work appear on leather tops, jackets and vests, fitting into the dialogue between artistic heritage and urban contemporaneity that runs throughout the show. More restrained, however, is the presence of eveningwear. Evening dresses are composed of structured blazers overlaid with organza skirts with ruffles and train, while ruffles in denim or applied to mini silhouettes add movement without completely abandoning the casual attitude of the collection.
The result is a Cruise that fully reflects Ghesquière’s language: layered, dynamic and built on contrast.
Guests at the spun spotted arriving at the venue included the unfailing Zendaya, in a soft one-shoulder pearl-gray mini dress; Iris Law, wearing peach-colored pants paired with a white crop top with black floral patterns; and Emma Stone, in an elegant black jacket and pants suit.
[📷 BACKGRID / Snapix; Instagram: louisvuitton]
