Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez seem very clear and decisive in their vision for Loewe, the Spanish fashion house whose creative direction they recently took over. After their September debut, their creative line seems to be continuing into this Fall/Winter 2026, a co-ed collection that affirms the key words of the brand’s new direction: energy, functionality, color, and experimentation in fabrics. After a decade dominated by Jonathan Anderson’s atmospheres of magic realism, a decade that brought Loewe to a newfound recognizability and desirability, the new creative director duo renounces that naturalistic and romantic aspect to decline craftsmanship-a pillar of the brand-in a variant that echoes sportswear, made with the highest precision techniques. Do we like it or not? For the time being, we feel like remaining impartial on the matter, because while admitting their expertise is inevitable, the language chosen for this new chapter remains in a hybrid already highly experimented by the fashion world in the past decade, where technical fabrics declined in a sophisticated key dictated the law, making us today, in 2026, less enthusiastic about it.
Color is definitely a distinctive feature: Klein blue, fluorescent yellow, orange, bright blue, emerald green just to name a few. Not a simple stylistic choice, but a precise echo to the pop and vitamin world of the new Loewe, which comes straight and dry in its rounded or slim silhouettes. Slip dresses in stiff, shimmering fabrics are paired with full-textured, contrasting tights, while rubber shoes fuse experimentation with athletic footwear and kitten heels. Structured outerwear in stiff but dynamic fabrics meet furry elements or in knitted knitwear, unique touches of softness, in asymmetrical mini-dresses and skirts with train. Bomber jackets are three-dimensional, with accordion-like unfolded hoods with contrasting printed patterns – such as flowers and checks – and express comfort for dailywear that can be wrap-around yet utilitarian, thanks to waterproof fabrics or rainproof armor hoods. Material and architectural yet essential lyricism, for a collection imbued with pop attitude and sophisticated dynamism, while the bags – always Loewe’s flagship – repropose the shape of briefcases but minimal, or are declined in a tote key but with a rigid texture. Tailoring is slim, while coats are oversized and structured, with maxi puff panels with checks sticking out of the pockets, like pillows for soft landings even in the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Eco-fur, neoprene, plumage: the material workmanship is not lacking, the long-term vision? We shall see. Guests include Emily Ratajkowski, Sarah Pidgeon, and Korean actor Song Kang.
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