Forget the interiors of Avenue Montaigne, with their finely decorated mirrors, immaculate woodwork and large vases of roses perfectly distributed throughout the rooms: Paris has taken a flight to the West Coast, more precisely to Los Angeles. It is here, in fact, that Dior has chosen to present its new Cruise 2027 collection, the first signed by Jonathan Anderson, who has decided to reinterpret one of the French maison’s oldest and most identifying ties: that with Hollywood. Indeed, Monsieur Dior dressed divas even before the very concept of stardom exploded in its popular meaning: Rita Hayworth and Marlene Dietrich were his favorite muses, but also Grace Kelly and literally every actress who gave face to the most important film roles of the time. None could resist the allure of wearing a New Look. Today, Anderson chooses to pay homage to this connection, an integral part of Dior’s DNA, without giving in to nostalgia, but through an enthusiastic stylistic exploration that appears as fresh as the winds blowing on the beaches of LA and, at the same time, impeccably sophisticated and meticulously crafted, with hints of the glamour of old Hollywood and its myths.
The location is LACMA: an international art institution that welcomes guests with Chris Burden’s striking Urban Light installation, a composition of 202 historic lampposts that has become over time one of the most photographed sights in Los Angeles. The atmosphere is cinematic: metallic cars burst into the darkness of a California night, where thriller meets sparkle and the mind races to Hitchcock’s great classics or the Lynchian Mulholland Drive. High-drama lighting is reflected on the surfaces of the clothes: never before has Anderson shown his passion for sparkling contaminated by antithetical but brilliant creative energies as in this show. The maison’s signature flowers-which we find in the designer’s playful decorativism-bloom in the cold Los Angeles night, while the dresses soar floating in a cadenced and poetic dynamism, made even more impactful by bangs, glittering appliquĂ©s, ribbons, and plays of color that define the path of Dior’s new muse.
Men, on the other hand, do not forgo tailoring, with defined silhouettes and slim fits, but also shimmering capes worthy of a hero protagonist of a story we can’t wait to hear. Leading the way is the fruit of a collaboration with the master of hats par excellence, Stephen Jones: headwear emblazoned with the words “Dior” and “Buzz” that remind us how perfectly Anderson’s playful look can fit into any narrative, no matter where in the world he is. Like it or not, the Northern Irish designer confirms himself as one of the most evocative voices of this period in history: his creativity explodes with grace, reflecting an undeniable know-how.
His fashion teaches us to go beyond any diktat without neglecting beauty.
[đź“·Instagram: dior]
