It was only last year that it went viral around the world thanks to a white T-shirt with an iconic inscription on it, “Protect the Dolls.” What may have looked like a simple T-shirt however concealed a much deeper social message and was quickly shared by the likes of Pedro Pascal, Troye Sivan and Addison Rae just to name a few. We are talking about Conner Ives, the young American designer who, from that t-shirt onward, was able to quickly conquer the fashion system and a large group of celebrities, increasingly fascinated by his creations.
“Protect the Dolls” was not just a catch phrase but a universal message launched in protection of the transgender community. “I would not be here if it were not for the dolls,” the 1996-born designer had declared. “Dolls” meaning “dolls” was an affectionate way of referring to the trans women who often walk the American designer’s runways and who still sadly suffer political and social discrimination around the world. A New York-born American, Conner Ives moved to London to study design at the prestigious Central Saint Martins and was later enlisted as a designer in the stable of one of the most influential women in contemporary pop culture. Indeed, it was Rihanna who wanted him as a designer for the launch of her Fenty brand, an experience that helped Ives mature creatively in no small part, so much so that in 2021 he was the winner of the LVMH Prize. Famous for his use of recycled and vintage materials, as well as inspirations from distant worlds and artistic references, his collections become more comprehensive and desirable year after year, winning over critics, customers, and stars alike.
From the plumage dress in silk crepe and pink chiffon worn by Kylie Jenner to the draped purple velvet one sported by Emily Ratajkowski at the after party of the last Oscars 2026, passing through the romantic and minimal taffeta one worn by Dree Hemingway, without a doubt Conner Ives has become one of the leading names in the British fashion scene. In particular, this winter, it was his kimono jackets that went viral, riding a trend-that of the Penny Lane coat-but reinterpreted in a more oriental, precious key, in some ways inspired by the evening coats better known as Opera Coats. From Kate Moss to ZoĂ« Kravitz, any self-respecting it-girl has worn one of Conner Ives’ coats, with fur edging, precious colors, and Chinoiserie-inspired embroidery lending a charming retro touch. Her ability to combine street-style and high references from the past are rare gifts, as are the mix and match of silks and the art of embroidery, references to tapestries and tapestries, in a maximalist yet contemporary key.
[đź“·connerives.com]
