Chanel’s 1957 fragrance, an elegant musky composition created by the House’s perfumer-creator Olivier Polge in 2019, was conceived as a tribute to the year Gabrielle Chanel made her triumphant return to the U.S. market. Unexpectedly, over time the fragrance has also become a true good-luck charm for Chinese consumers, who have transformed it into a symbol of prosperity and wealth, contributing significantly to its commercial success in Asia. The inclusion of 1957 in the Les Extraits collection, housed in a precious diamond-shaped case, can certainly be seen as a response to market interest. On a creative level, however, it represents above all an opportunity for Polge to amplify the fragrance’s enigmatic character, offering an interpretation that is more textured and slightly deeper than the original version, presented in the Les Exclusifs collection.
To describe this evolution, Polge draws on a textile analogy: while the original 1957 evokes the simple freshness of a perfectly ironed cotton shirt, the Extrait version evokes the precious, ethereal lightness of chiffon. “Anyone already familiar with 1957 will immediately notice the difference. The Extrait version has a richer texture, greater depth. It’s as if the composition were delicately enriched with orange blossom, iris, and subtle leathery accents, which give it a more intense and slightly darker vibe,” Polge tells WWD. “You could draw a parallel with the thickness and preciousness of a fabric, and with the way each material lends itself to different moments and occasions,” he adds.
This week in Shanghai, Polge welcomed guests to the exclusive Grand Parfumeur event, transforming the Rojo Art & Culture Space into a refined sanctuary dedicated to the olfactory universe of Chanel. The experience began with the story of Chanel N°5, told through an interactive digital book, followed by a film narrated by the Maison’s ambassador, Zhou Xun, dedicated to the precious raw materials cultivated in Grasse, and finally culminating in a sensory experience that invited guests to discover five of the fragrance’s most iconic ingredients. The distribution of Les Extraits reflects its exclusivity: the collection will be available exclusively by appointment at a select number of boutiques—approximately 50 in China and 200 worldwide—much like a piece of fine jewelry. At the same time, in a Chinese market where consumers are showing greater caution in their purchases without giving up so-called “small luxuries,” Chanel has launched a new set of spray perfumes that allows customers to choose three fragrances from among eleven Extrait versions, offering a more personalized and versatile way to explore their own olfactory universe.
In perfect harmony with the legacy of Coco Chanel—who was always fascinated by symbols and superstition—the brand also plays on consumers’ imaginations: According to Chinese digital folklore, pairing 1957 with Sycomore and Chanel N°5 is said to be a good omen, as it symbolizes meeting an influential mentor, professional success, and financial prosperity.
The spray set, also housed in an elegant diamond-shaped case and launched about a month ago, is available in limited quantities at select boutiques. Looking ahead, Polge previews the debut of the new Extrait-in-Oil, scheduled for next year. “It will be an even more intimate way to wear perfume,” he explains. “We often talk about the richness of the raw materials and the dialogue the fragrance establishes with the skin. It is precisely this deeply sensual dimension that I find fascinating,” concludes the perfumer.
[📷 chanel.com]
