On a wooden catwalk, bare and essential just like the designer’s DNA, parade dark-lipped models for Yohji Yamamoto’s Fall/Winter 2026 collection. The atmosphere is understated, almost austere, and prepares the eye for a sequence of garments in which material and construction take the place of any superfluous decoration.
Tunics closed by satin bows alternate with dresses that recall the structure of the kimono, enriched by inserts in soft fabrics. Materials, mainly wool, linen, velvet and silk appear in constructions with harmonious asymmetry, which wrap the body naturally. Black, the central color in the designer’s universe, dominates the palette and is combined from time to time with gray, dark green or light blue, sometimes crossed with delicate prints of flora and fauna. This is followed by foot-length black coats and heavy capes composed of different layers of textures.
Deconstruction and superimposition run through the entire collection and are confirmed as the driving elements of Yamamoto’s language. The work on the cut and composition of the garments thus becomes the real center of the proposal: fabrics are overlapped, reworked, recomposed in a balance that seems spontaneous but reveals an extremely complex construction.
Decorative elements are kept to a minimum. What catches the eye are mainly the hairstyles, transformed into disheveled sculptures that encircle the head or descend on the face, introducing a slight tension into the strict lines of the garments. Even some headdresses take on an eccentric character, becoming almost sculptural, more like artistic experiments than simple accessories.
The oriental flavor is clearly perceptible, in the silhouettes that evoke the kimono and in the measure with which each element enters the scene. At the end of the fashion show a feeling of deep calm remains upon us: a collection that proceeds slowly and rigorously, leaving the viewer with the impression of having taken part in a ceremonial rite in which beauty appears to be absolute mistress.
[đź“· Instagram: yohjiyamamotoofficial]
