Elegant yet versatile, rigorous and at the same time capable of being lightweight: lace-ups represent one of those rare wardrobe elements in which tradition and contemporaneity coexist naturally. Originally designed for the male wardrobe but now fully integrated into the female one as well, they casually accompany jaunty looks as well as more formal outfits, always maintaining a strong stylistic identity.
Among the most iconic models of this footwear family are the Oxford and Derby, two variants that differ in construction and attitude. The term Oxford refers to a very specific model: the closed lace-up shoe, in which the quarters are sewn under the upper, creating a clean, refined line. The name refers to Oxford University, where in the 19th century this model began to spread among students and became a symbol of sobriety and distinction. Different, however, is the Derby, characterized by open lacing with quarters sewn over the upper-a softer, more versatile construction historically associated with less formal and more dynamic use. This technical distinction also translates into style; Oxfords are synonymous with rigor and classic elegance, perfect for formal settings; Derbys, on the other hand, lend themselves more to contemporary, casual-chic interpretations.
In recent seasons, lace-ups have made a powerful comeback in both variants, recapturing catwalks and street style after years when the loafer reigned supreme. Alongside maisons like Church’s, which has made them a hallmark of its heritage, we have seen them reinterpreted in a modern key by the big names. Dolce&Gabbana proposes them paired with lace transparencies and rigorously elegant pinstripe suits, Chanel plays on contrast by juxtaposing them with the lightness of light and impalpable dresses, while Simone Rocha enhances their more playful side by introducing colored laces and unexpected details.
Ever-evolving style icons, lace-ups demonstrate how tradition can dialogue with the contemporary, adapting to every season and personality
[đź“· Getty Images; IPA; Courtesy of Dolce&Gabbana; Courtesy of Chanel; jilsander.com; marni.com; prada.com; miumiu.com đź“ą Instagram: churchs]
