If I may give you some dispassionate advice, whatever bag you have in your closet, avoid giving it away. Even if you’ve had it for years and think it might be obsolete and definitely out of fashion: trends are cyclical and everything comes back, sooner or later. This is coming from someone who gave away an Alexa by Mulberry and a Rocco by Alexander Wang, but also a City Messenger Bag by Balenciaga, and now regrets it bitterly.
Never before has fashion reclaimed the archives as in this historical period, and handbags are undoubtedly the most desired accessory when it comes to comeback to the past. The handbag remains a statement accessory that can turn a look around, but more importantly, an exclusive collector’s item beyond its everyday wearability.
Brands have said it loud and clear: recovering iconic silhouettes and models that have often fallen into oblivion has become the new favorite sport of designers. Above all, however, the public is responding well, in an emotional mix of nostalgia and rediscovery, which can also be cultivated on specialized resale and vintage platforms, where one can find unrepeatable offers not to be missed. In this sense, timing is key: the key is to buy them well before they go viral, before their cost rises disproportionately.
We have seen this with the it-bags of the 2000s that are back on the crest of the wave again, such as Chloé’s Paddington or Saint Laurent’s Mombasa Bag, designed back in the day by then-creative director Tom Ford: bags that have now been revived in the current collections of the two brands. But if until six months ago you could buy them on Vinted even for 300 or 400 euros, now it is practically impossible. Even used, their cost has soared. Therefore, knowing how to figure out what the next objects of desire might be is an art that needs to be carefully honed and put into practice through constant research and a pinch of instinct.
But what might be the new it-bags to watch out for and buy before they become prohibitively expensive? Let’s start with a great Italian classic: the Fendi Spy from the Roman brand now headed by Maria Grazia Chiuri. Launched in 2005 and quickly becoming a symbol of an opulent and casual Y2K aesthetic, the Fendi Spy is characterized by a soft, rounded silhouette, often referred to as a “sack” or “a dumpling.” It stands out for its deliberately irregular and worn design, which gives it a relaxed yet sophisticated allure. It is also a bag that testifies to the brand’s craftsmanship know-how: careful stitching, precious finishes and studied details make it instantly recognizable. Among its distinguishing features are the woven torchon handles, which add a unique touch to the bag’s soft silhouette.
Boho soul and rodeo-core mood for Dior’s Gaucho Bag, launched in 2006 by John Galliano. Less mainstream than the Saddle, but just as iconic, it embodies a free, nomadic and deliberately imperfect spirit that deeply marked the fashion of those years. Its silhouette recalls that of the Saddle Bag, but is reinterpreted in a softer, more functional key: wider volumes, less rigid lines, and a “slouchy” structure that makes it practical and casual. It is a bag designed to be lived in, almost time-worn, with leathers treated to achieve a natural, worn effect. Made primarily of grained or washed leather, the Gaucho is distinguished by details such as contrasting stitching, vintage-looking metal buckles, and iconic charms.
After the Mombasa, there is another Saint Laurent bag that might appeal to nostalgics and more: the Muse Bag, the embodiment of a classic and sophisticated style. Launched in the early 2000s under the creative direction of Stefano Pilati, its silhouette makes it less flashy than other models of the same era, anticipating that quiet luxury concept we know all too well today. We warned you.
Finally, although Chanel manages to surprise us with each collection with desirable new designs, the French fashion house’s Cambon Bag has once again emerged as one of the coolest of the moment. Already seen on the arm of celebrities such as Lily-Rose Depp-her mother Vanessa Paradis was a testimonial for Karl Lagerfeld’s campaigns-the Cambon stands out for its deliberately girly and posh touch, and for its iconic contrasting oversize CC logo, often in black patent leather applied on a light-colored quilted base, or vice versa, which breaks with Chanel’s typical understated elegance to embrace a more pop and overt aesthetic.
Whatever your choice, I wish you to find your it-bag of the heart. Good luck.
[📷 IPA]
